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Lesson 3 of 3

The second barn
is the expensive one.

A barn is priced by the square foot and a fence by the foot, and both are paid for by the year. The bid shows what the first one costs. This page is about what a building costs per year it stands up straight and keeps the weather off what is inside, and it is written for the person paying for it as much as the person building it.

Section drawing of a post foundation with a concrete collar, splash plank, and grade line at the base of a post-frame wall
The place a barn fails first: the few inches either side of the grade line. The NFBA draws it because the warranty does not cover getting it wrong. NFBA Post-Frame Building Design Manual.
The math the bid leaves out

Three failures that never make the spreadsheet.

The post at grade. A barn post does not rot in the middle. It rots in the band a few inches above and below the dirt, where it is wet and has air. A fence-post rating, low retention, a cut end in the hole, or dirt and manure piled against the skirt board all show up there, and the Wolmanized warranty lists every one of those as a condition. When a post goes, the wall metal comes off and the roof is jacked, then the stub comes out of the ground and a new post or a steel bracket goes in. The warranty, when it applies, sends a post. The crew, the jacks, and the week are yours, at a later year's prices, while the barn is full.

The panel at the cut. The coating warranty is written on the film and the color. It is not written on the edge the crew cut or the screw that was driven crooked. A panel that fails at the eave gets replaced from the eave up, which on a barn with cut-to-length sheets means the whole sheet.

The fence that leans. Every foot of wire pulls on the corner post, and four or five strands is four or five pulls. A corner that is too small, too shallow, or not braced tips toward the pull in a few winters, the wire goes slack, and every line post down the run leans with it. A gate hung on a line post does the same thing faster. The fix is a new corner assembly and a re-stretch, and by then the animals have found the slack.

The question is not which barn is cheaper. It is what each building costs per year it does its job.

How to use this page

Bring two quotes. We do not put prices on the site.

Get a quote for the barn or fence you are being told to buy and one for the barn or fence you would rather put up. Enter the size, both quotes as a whole-job number, and how long you expect to own the place. Then enter the service life you believe for each, the upkeep you expect in an average year, and what it would cost to fix the failure that ends its life, or to take it down and put up the next one. The questions below give the terms the makers publish.

The calculator charges upkeep every year, counts a replacement and its demolition whenever a building's life runs out inside your hold, and credits the unused life of whichever building is still standing when you sell. The result is what each choice costs over the hold, and per square foot per year of service.

It does not know which barns you are comparing. It only knows arithmetic.

What the makers publish

Terms to start from, not to stop at.

Treated posts: the Wolmanized warranty runs as long as the original owner owns the property, covers termites and decay only, replaces wood and not labor, and requires Heavy Duty on barn posts with no cut end in the ground. No maker we sell publishes a service life in years for a post; the calculator asks for the number you would defend to a buyer.

Laminated columns: UTD publishes a limited warranty against termites and fungal decay and a load table, and says the column does not twist and crack the way a drying solid timber does.

Metal: GingCo's panels carry a coil coating warranty split into film integrity and chalk and fade, in years, by the coil coater; ask us for the sheet for the color you pick. Panels are quoted to order, with a limited quantity of common panels and trim on the yard.

Wire and gates: Red Brand publishes the class of galvanizing and says Class 3 lasts 2.5 times as long as Class 1. Behlen and Tarter publish the tube, the confinement level, and the hardware. Neither publishes a year count.

Cost Over Time

Two barns, one farm, your numbers.

Nothing you type here is sent anywhere. It runs in your browser. It works the same for a fence: put linear feet in the size box.

The building

Barn A (the cheaper quote)

Barn B (the better quote)

Terms the makers publish: treated posts warranted against decay for the original owner, wood only, Heavy Duty required on a barn; metal coating warranted on film and color in years; wire in Class 1 or Class 3. Nobody publishes a life in years. Pick the life you would defend to a buyer, and the upkeep you would actually do.

Over 20 years, 1,200 square feet

Barn A, day one
Barn A, upkeep over the hold
Barn A, replacements during the hold
Barn A, cost over the hold (net of unused life)
Barn A, per square foot per year of service
Barn B, day one
Barn B, upkeep over the hold
Barn B, replacements during the hold
Barn B, cost over the hold (net of unused life)
Barn B, per square foot per year of service
Difference on the bid
Difference over the hold

Fill in both quotes and both service lives to see the comparison.

Cost over the hold = first job, plus upkeep every year, plus each replacement (the repair or tear-down plus a new building at the same quote) that falls inside the hold, minus the value of the life left in the last building when you sell (priced at that building's quote). Per square foot per year of service = the quote divided by service life, plus a year's upkeep, divided by the size.

Before You Price a Barn

Know what you are putting up.

Three short reads on pole barns, fencing, and outdoor structures. Written for the owner who has to answer to the budget, and for the weather.

Frequently Asked

Barn and fence cost over time, answered.

Why do pole barn posts rot at ground level?
Because the first few inches above and below grade are the wettest, most oxygenated part of the post, and it is also where a cut end, a low retention, or a fence-post rating gets found out. The Wolmanized warranty names the conditions in its own words: wood that stays in contact with soil or debris, wood without enough ventilation to dry, anything less than 6 inches above grade, and cut surfaces used in the ground. The fix on a standing barn is not a repair. The wall comes off and the post is jacked, then the stub is dug out and a new post or a steel bracket goes in with the roof held up in the air. The warranty, if it applies, buys the post. The rest is labor at a later year's prices.
Why does a fence lean in five years?
The corner post gave. Every foot of wire pulls on the corner, and Red Brand's barbed wire page recommends 4 to 5 strands, which is 4 to 5 pulls. A corner post that is too small, too shallow, or not braced tips toward the pull, the wire slackens, and every line post down the run starts to lean with it. A gate on a line post does the same thing faster. The fix is a new corner assembly and a re-stretch, and by then some of the wire has been walked down by the animals it was supposed to hold.
Does a longer-lived barn change what I pay for insurance or resale?
We do not sell insurance and will not guess. What we can say is that a barn with a truss drawing on file, Heavy Duty posts with the tags kept, and a coil tag for the metal is a barn a buyer or an adjuster can read. A barn with none of that is a barn they have to guess at. Ask your agent what your carrier wants to see on an outbuilding; the paperwork in Lesson 2 is the same paperwork.

Stop By the Desk

Let’s talk it through in person.

Bring your plans or just your questions. We’ll get you squared away.
119 Cumberland St, Ashland City. The coffee’s on.

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